Hardware and hinge work rides along with a painted kitchen: abandoned handle holes get filled and sanded smooth, a drilling template places the new ones, soft-close hinges replace the tired originals, and the metal finish is picked to suit the colour.
Most London kitchens getting painted are also getting new pulls, because the 1980s brass knobs in Oakridge and the 2005 satin nickel bars in Summerside age a kitchen as surely as the door colour does. Hardware is decided before the primer goes on, and it is covered at the same visit as the colour consultation.
A new pull with a different spacing than the old one leaves the old holes showing. They get a two-part wood filler that does not shrink, sanded flush, spot-primed and primed again with the door, so the patch disappears under the sprayed coats. Filling holes after cabinet painting leaves a visible bump and a colour mismatch. Filling them before the primer leaves nothing.
Doors that are keeping the same handles keep their holes, and before cabinet painting starts the hardware is taken off, bagged and labelled with the door so every pull goes back where it came from.
Drilling is done after the doors are hung, once the finish is hard enough not to chip at the bit. A drilling template clamps to each door so that pull height and inset never vary across the kitchen, which is the detail that separates a professional cabinet painting job from a weekend one. Drawer fronts are measured for centred pulls, and doors of a given size are marked so each knob or bar lands in an identical spot. A backing block behind the door stops the bit blowing out the finish on the far side.
Market figures put drilling at a small per-hole charge, and it gets a line to itself on the quote.
A 1980s or 1990s kitchen has hinges that slam and doors that have dropped a quarter inch over thirty years. Soft-close concealed hinges replace them in the same cup holes, close the door silently over the last inch, and adjust in three directions so every door lines up with its neighbour after cabinet painting. Older face-frame hinges with exposed knuckles are swapped for concealed ones where the door style allows, and their screw holes get filler and paint. With the drawers already out for cabinet painting, soft-close slides can go in as well.
Sage, forest green, navy and warm white all take brushed or antique brass well. White, greige and charcoal lean modern under matte black. Nickel in a brushed finish goes with nearly everything and ages the least. Two finishes can share a kitchen, say brass for the island and black around the walls, as long as each stays in its own zone. We fit the trial pull to the sample door so colour and metal are judged together. Owners can supply hardware or have us source it, and the quote lists it either way.
Have the pull you like on hand at the visit, send us a photo, or call +1 (226) 271-3465, and the drilling and hinge work goes on the quote. The London Cabinet Painting home page covers the cabinet painting that the hardware finishes.
Whatever the cabinet, vanity, pantry, island or built-in, the prep, primer and sprayed enamel match what the kitchen received.
Kitchen cabinet painting keeps the kitchen you have: doors, drawer fronts and boxes are each prepped to suit their material, then sprayed with a hard enamel in a fresh colour, for far less than replacing anything.
See Kitchen Cabinets
A spray gun lays hard enamel onto cabinet doors in thin, even passes that a brush cannot match, leaving a factory-smooth surface with no ridges, stroke marks or drips where grease can gather or chips can start.
See Spray Painting
Refinishing suits cabinets built from wood too good to hide. Stripping or sanding removes the tired old finish, a new stain goes on if a different colour is wanted, and a hard clear coat locks the grain in.
See Refinishing
Golden oak from the 1980s becomes a current painted kitchen through oak cabinet painting: tannins get sealed under a shellac primer, the open grain gets filled or stays on show, and a hard sprayed enamel goes over top.
See Oak Cabinets
Slick factory surfaces such as thermofoil, melamine and laminate shed ordinary paint, so this kind of cabinet painting starts with an adhesion primer that grips them, followed by a sprayed enamel topcoat that holds for years.
See Thermofoil and Melamine
Refacing hangs brand-new doors and drawer fronts on cabinet boxes still worth keeping, or replaces a lone damaged door, after which every piece is sprayed at once so the whole kitchen reads as one matched set.
See Refacing and New Doors
A two-tone kitchen sets a light painted perimeter against an island done in stained wood, charcoal, green or navy, and the island can be done as part of the whole kitchen or sprayed by itself as its own small job.
See Two-Tone and Islands
Condo kitchen cabinet painting suits a galley with somewhere between ten and fifteen doors, respects the building's rules on hours, elevators and parking, and sends the doors away to the booth so the suite remains livable while the work is done.
See Condo Kitchens
Painting a bathroom vanity takes a day or two: its doors, drawer fronts and box get the full kitchen prep and a sprayed enamel that tolerates steam, at a fraction of a kitchen's size and price.
See Bathroom Vanities
Rental property cabinet painting gives landlords a durable, sprayed, wipe-clean kitchen finish between tenants, priced per unit and scheduled around move-out dates, with hardware and hinge fixes done at the same visit.
See Rental Properties
Tall pantries, laundry and mudroom cabinets, wall units, bookcases and fireplace mantels are built into the house, so instead of going to a booth they get sprayed in position behind sealed plastic, using the same hard enamel a kitchen gets.
See Pantries and Built-Ins
Colour and sheen get settled before any cabinet painting begins, on full-size sample doors sprayed in the actual product and left standing in the actual kitchen, with the colour matched from whichever paint deck the owner prefers.
See Colour ConsultationSomeone comes out, counts doors, checks the material and writes up the quote. There is no fee for the visit and nothing to sign.
Give us whatever you know about the kitchen, and a call comes back to arrange a time. A name plus a phone number gets the form through. To skip the form and talk it over, call +1 (226) 271-3465.
